Tales from the Yucatan, Part
3
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This Episode F e a t u r i n g . . .
* All-U-Can Drink and the New Beverage Math
* Xel-Ha
* Xcacel
All-U-Can Drink and the New Beverage Math
I might have gone to Cancun alone, but I found myself almost never alone,
or bored for that matter, particularly in the evenings. There's a lot of
fun bars, clubs, and so forth to keep one entertained . . . pretty much
until the sun comes up . . . and always a great fun-loving crowd from all
over the world.
A
couple of recommendations: conveniently located across the street from
the Costa Real hotel is the La Boom / Tequila Boom complex. La Boom
cranks the techno / pop / disco tunes and features a lot of special effects
(fog machines, lights, etc.), while Tequila Boom, a short hallway away,
is a more relaxed place, with big-screen TVs, often a live band playing,
and dancing in a boxing ring. Behind T.B. is a large patio with a snack
bar and has nice terraces overlooking the tranquil lagoon. Tequila Boom
was also the regular host of the US$12 all you-can drink evenings. More
on that shortly.
The Dady'O and Dady Rock complex had a similar arrangement,
although the 'disco' side was a lot more intense, with this floor-clearing
light show that bordered on cheesy. Dady'O also had the aforementioned
floor-shaking sound system. Dady Rock also usually had a US$10.99 (don't
forget your pennies!) all-you-can-drink event going.
Tequila Rock was a similar disco-setup but seemed to draw a
more sedate crowd the two nights I was there (probably due to the lack
of the all-you-can drink deal). Tequila Rock is located in the so-called
"Party Center" of Cancun, about 200 yards to the rear of Dady'O between
the south and northbound directions of Blvd. Kukulkan.
In speaking with Tod, the Canadian scuba-instructor at the Costa
Real, the topic of the all-you-want beverages came up (mainly because his
eyes looked a little red after he took off his shades to put on a mask).
Tod whipped out his calculator and did a little beverage math: at 1.8 pesos
per beer wholesale, and at the prevailing exchange rate, one would have
to drink 52 beers in order to get $12 worth. Apparently, Tequila Boom isn't
in danger of going out of business . . . and many perfectly good livers
have been sacrificed in the attempt.
And liquor
was being administered by so many methods. By teapot, by shot glass, by
plastic beverage bottle with hole punched in cap, and by Super-Soaker squirt
gun, various tequila concoctions were administered from the top of the
bar, the top of a ladder, or the side of the swimming pool. Usually a lot
of whistle blowing and cheering was involved, too, and perhaps an occasional
mop. The best part was to turn the tables on the waiters/waitresses and
give *them* the shot. They never seemed to mind that terribly; soon, I
found myself playing waiter to the wait staff.
The Tequila Rock ladder liquor, professionally administered
Xel-Ha and Xcacel
On my fourth day in Cancun, I hopped in the Tracker with a recent
acquaintance from Tennessee and headed south to Xel-Ha for a day
of swimming and snorkeling. Xel-Ha is not to be confused with the highly
commercialized Xcaret -- I went there last year but spent about
US$20 less getting into Xel-Ha.
Xel-Ha
was pleasantly uncrowded when we arrived, and after a walk down on of its
jungle paths, pretty soon it was just us and the iguanas. After a bit of
a walk, we reached the mouth of a stream where we put on our snorkel gear
and descended into the cool water for a trip downstream. Just as we entered
the water, we heard a pretty large splash of some other animal probably
doing the same. The Xel-Ha employee assured me that it was nothing, and
we continued. Next day I would feel otherwise, after visiting a local crocodile
farm (more on that in a bit).
The river begins lined with the roots of trees and gradually becomes
more rocky. Giant parrotfish and an occasional stingray populated the waters.
Unfortunately, the algae coating the rocks was a little thick and tended
to occlude the water at some points, the eutrophication probably the result
of daily human interaction. At other points, the water cleared up spectacularly,
revealing caves and niches under the rocks where all kinds of fish were
hiding. There were also rocky outcroppings on the banks which the good
Xel-Ha folks had developed into tiny, private sandy beaches, complete with
a few chairs and a palapa. We had a great time swimming, sunning, swimming,
sunning. I was the lizard king.
I had
wanted to explore the out-of-the-way beaches along the way back, and with
the sun setting, I turned off the route back to Cancun and after a short
bit, emerged on the incredible Xcacel beach. On this stretch of
beach were a few people camping . . . and then white sand, turquoise water,
a few palm trees, more white sand, and a beautiful sunset over the jungle.
Next time, I'm pitchin' a tent.
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